Robin。｜陈烨彬 Robin Chen

《风雅生活论》Trattato della vita Elegante, Balzac

陈烨彬 Robin Chen — 2024-04-27T09:18:00+00:00

“在我们的社会中，诸多差别几乎消失殆尽，如今只有在某些细节上的不同。因此，良好的教养，高雅的举止和那些我说不清楚的完整教育的成果形成了一道仅有的屏障，把那些游手好闲的懒惰份子和勤于事业的人分开。”

《风雅生活论》

奥诺雷•德•巴尔扎克(HonorG de Balzac)在他的《高雅生活条约》(Trattato dellavita elegante, 1830)中的论述，看助于我们深入了解资产阶级某种类型的高雅。

风格，世俗性，社会规范，工作和金钱，优雅和异想天开。

“你变得富有; 优雅的人诞生了。“
“忽视厕所是一种道德上的自杀。”
“人习惯了工作，无法理解的优雅生活。”
最后，高雅的生活，高尚或富裕是不够的，但有能力选择真正美丽或正确的事物；完全适应每个人的生活方式的事物。“优雅生活的原则是对秩序与和谐的崇高思想，注定是要向事物传达诗意”。
实际上，对工人进行最严厉的处罚恰恰是对模仿的需求。
只看时尚的男人是个傻瓜。高雅的生活既不排除思想也不排除科学。
风雅的人从不抱怨东西太贵，因为他们什么都估计在先。
semper paratus——拉丁文：永远有准备。
过着风雅生活的人，天天过节，而大多数人仅有周日。
服饰是社会的表象。
装束上疏忽大意是一种道德的自杀。
服饰集科学、艺术、习俗、情感于一体。
服饰绝不应该成为一种奢侈。
沙龙哲学家。
发明服装不是为了遮掩身体的缺陷，而是为了充分展示身体的有点。

《步态论》

步态显出女神本相。
我们身上的一切都有一个相应的内因。
婚姻如果不是世界上最严肃认真的事，大概就是世界上最滑稽可笑的事了。
bifrons——拉丁语：有两张面孔的。
他向我们揭示了那些小小的勾心斗角、邻里间的争风吃醋、夫妻间纷争的秘密。这一切问题日益尖锐，很短时间内就使人变得低级庸俗，销蚀了最坚强的意志。梦幻的甜美烟消云散。在‘私人生活场景’中，人们沉于柏拉图主义之中，每个人都看得很准，将物质生活的幸福当作生活中的捕获物。女人不再去感觉，而是推理；从前是奉献自己，现在则要算计自己的堕落有何利弊了。总之，生命成熟了，生活暗淡了。
真情实感已属例外，感情已被物质利害作用摧毁，被这个机械世界车轮的转动辗得粉碎。美德在这里受到诽谤，天真无邪在这里被出卖。激情让位于叫人倾家荡产的癖好，让位于恶习。一切都可以切碎，分析，出售，购买。这是一个杂货市场，一切都标价出售。在这里，光天化日之下进行盘算，不以为耻。整个人类只有两种形式：骗人者与受骗者。
这些外省人往往真诚地将一个相当愚蠢的女人当作很有头脑的女性介绍给你，将一个丑八怪当作叫人神魂颠倒的美人儿介绍给你……

Robin at Quanzhou on 27th April, 2024

Trading Up - Why consumers Want New Luxury Goods… and How Companies Create Them by Michael J. Silverstein

陈烨彬 Robin Chen — 2024-04-14T09:33:00+00:00

关于本书

因为《营销管理（第15版）》里面引用了一段话注意到本书，本来只想看看Amazon和goodreads的书评，没想到内容不是一般的好。

我的评价：市场定位看这本就够了！

作者采访

「大量的中产阶级消费者定期消费他们称之为“新奢侈品”的产品和服务，这些产品和服务“和同产品类别中其他商品相比，具有更高水平的质量、品位和热情，但也没有贵得无法触及”」

追逐高档商品（低档商品）称为新型消费者，作者认为，典型的美国消费者已经转变为“有着高度热情、大量购买力和影响力的高雅的有见识的消费者，全球中产阶级消费者愿意在住房、汽车、度假和食品等产品与服务方面支付50%至200%溢价。

2004年，BCG开始第二轮有关低价策略的市场调研，迈克尔·希尔弗斯坦（Michael J. Silverstein* *）在其新书《寻宝：新消费者的想法（Treasure Hunt: Inside the Mind of the New Consumer ）》中指出，“现在无论是在美国还是在世界各地，消费者市场正分裂成两个快速增长的阵营。”“在高端市场中，消费者愿意支付更高的费用购买高品质、高利润并且充满感情色彩的产品和服务。而在低端市场中，消费者的表现则正好相反，他们费尽心机地用更少的钱来购买低成本的基本产品和服务。”在高端和低端市场之间存在的是大量的普通中端产品，希尔弗斯坦认为这一中端市场将注定走向衰败。

在此调研基础上，我们所得出的结论是，对于公司和消费者而言，无论是高价策略市场还是在低价策略市场中，都蕴藏着巨大的商机。在低价策略市场上的消费金额约为高价策略市场上的两倍。这两个市场都充满着机遇。市场正在向两极化的方向发展，这就意味着市场的高端和低端部分都将保持增长，而中端部分将呈现严重的萎缩趋势——这正是导致一些公司失利的原因所在。

鲁宾斯坦：高端市场和低端市场的确在增长之中，但是看起来中端市场也并未消失啊。

希尔弗斯坦：中端市场的规模的确仍然很大，但是其趋势则是不断缩减。如果低端市场的规模约为1.2万亿美元，高端市场的规模约为0.6万亿美元的话，那么中端市场的规模可达1.5万亿美元。根据我们的研究结果显示，在今后5年内中端市场的规模将按每年5% – 6%的速度缩减，而高端市场和低端市场的增长速度将分别达到每年10% – 12%以及5 % – 6%

鲁宾斯坦：我的看法是，当我们谈到市场的两极化趋势时，我们是不是不再需要继续沿用细分市场这一概念，而是只需要关注消费市场的高端和低端两大群体就可以了。

from 中端之患：消费者为何聚焦于市场的高端与低端- 繁体中文

其他一些观点

消费升级或消费降级的评判关键标准在于比对消费者以前的购买行为
消费升级、降级，主要源自消费者的消费力，消费力决定了消费价格区间，在这个区间里，消费者可能花低价和高价去购买不同的产品——便宜的口红或者m.a.c. 或者Tom Ford口红——核心是消费力，选择的理由就是情感利益。 《Trading Up》（译《消费升级》）书中就指出，“很多消费升级品牌的溢价总是以情感为基础，且和其他商品相比，消费者对它们有着更强烈的情感共鸣，而在另一些没有情感利益的品类上转换为消费降级。“
在消费降级时往往会选择下一个层级品牌中那些品质更好，又具有情感/社会主张的品牌，也就是一种对品牌“返璞归真”的状态，这就是曾被提及的日本第四消费时代，那一群消费品牌观念成熟，不痴迷于炫耀性消费和奢侈品的消费者，也当初日本无印良品创立之初便俘获的拥趸。口号：muji is enough!
这些“消费降级”的品牌有一个共同点，尽管比大牌便宜，但一定比同级品牌的利润更高，社会主张更清晰，比如无印良品（主张不为品牌而花费）、比如阿原手工皂（主张纯天然纯手工打造）、比如TOMS的公益鞋（主张买一双捐一双）
消费降级/升级中，一类来自于对经济形势波动的反馈，另一类则属于消费族群的主动行为
无论是消费升级/降级，创建情感利益都将是确保利润空间的重要手段
消费降级之际，也可能是品牌升级之时。

from 消费降级/升级在概念光环后到底藏着什么 - 知乎

阅读摘要

Dedication 奉献, April 12, 2024

They see trading up as a strategy and consistently follow a small number of practices: • They deliver genuine technical, functional, and emotional differencesin every product or service they offer. • They target their consumers tightly, ignoring traditional market segmentations and looking for common attitudes, spending patterns, and habits. • They create appealing identities, rich graphics, stunning retail presentations, and engaging shopping experiences. • They produce a stream of innovation. • They put cost into their products—investing in better raw materials and imaginative design—and gain a return on the investment on the sell side. • They create product apostles early, during or before the launch of their goods and services. The apostles act as their compass for market truth.

他们将交易视为一种策略，并始终遵循少数做法： • 他们在他们提供的每件产品或服务中都提供了真正的技术、功能和情感差异。• 他们紧紧瞄准消费者，忽视传统的市场细分，寻找共同的态度、消费模式和习惯。• 它们创造了吸引人的身份、丰富的图形、令人惊叹的零售展示和引人入胜的购物体验。• 他们产生源源不断的创新。• 他们把成本投入到他们的产品中——投资于更好的原材料和富有想象力的设计——并在卖方获得投资回报。• 他们在商品和服务发布的早期、期间或之前创建产品使徒。使徒们充当了他们寻找市场真理的指南针。

Dedication 奉献, April 12, 2024

Trading up is driven by the middle-class consumer who is educated, discerning, and ready to engage in the goods and services they consume.

以旧换新是由受过教育、有洞察力并准备参与他们消费的商品和服务的中产阶级消费者推动的。

Dedication 奉献, April 12, 2024

They are relatively affluent—earning $50,000 and above a year. They balance their budgets and trade down in more categories than they trade up in.

他们相对富裕——年收入 50,000 美元及以上。他们平衡预算，在更多的类别中进行交易，而不是以旧换新。

One - Trading Up to New Luxury: An Overview 一 - 以旧换新奢侈品：概述, April 12, 2024

From our analysis of the most successful New Luxury goods in more than thirty categories, we have identified three major types. “Accessible superpremium” products are priced at or near the top of their category, and at a considerable premium to conventional offerings.

通过对三十多个类别中最成功的新奢侈品的分析，我们确定了三种主要类型。“无障碍超高端”产品的价格处于或接近同类产品的顶端，并且比传统产品有相当大的溢价。

One - Trading Up to New Luxury: An Overview 一 - 以旧换新奢侈品：概述, April 12, 2024

They are willing, even eager, to pay a premium price for remarkable kinds of goods that we call New Luxury—products and services that possess higher levels of quality, taste, and aspiration than other goods in the category but are not so expensive as to be out of reach.

他们愿意，甚至渴望为非凡的商品支付高价，我们称之为“新奢侈品”——产品和服务比同类商品具有更高的质量、品味和愿望，但又不会贵到遥不可及的地步。

One - Trading Up to New Luxury: An Overview 一 - 以旧换新奢侈品：概述, April 12, 2024

“Old Luxury brand extensions” are lower-priced versions of products created by companies whose brands have traditionally been affordable only for the rich—households earning $200,000 and above.

“旧奢侈品牌延伸”是由公司创造的低价产品版本，这些公司的品牌传统上只有富人才能负担得起——收入在20万美元及以上的家庭。

One - Trading Up to New Luxury: An Overview 一 - 以旧换新奢侈品：概述, April 12, 2024

“Masstige” goods—short for “mass prestige”—are neither at the top of their category in price nor related to other iterations of the brand. They occupy a sweet spot in the market “between mass and class,” commanding a premium over conventional products, but priced well below superpremium or Old Luxury goods.

“Masstige”商品——“大众声望”的缩写——在价格上既不在同类产品中名列前茅，也与该品牌的其他迭代产品无关。它们在市场上占据了“大众和阶级之间”的最佳位置，比传统产品有溢价，但价格远低于超高端或旧奢侈品。

One - Trading Up to New Luxury: An Overview 一 - 以旧换新奢侈品：概述, April 12, 2024

Most important, New Luxury goods are always based on emotions, and consumers have a much stronger emotional engagement with them than with other goods.

最重要的是，新奢侈品总是基于情感，消费者对它们的情感参与比其他商品要强得多。

One - Trading Up to New Luxury: An Overview 一 - 以旧换新奢侈品：概述, April 12, 2024

When a New Luxury brand solidly delivers the ladder of benefits, it can catch fire.

当一个新奢侈品牌扎实地提供利益阶梯时，它可能会着火。

One - Trading Up to New Luxury: An Overview 一 - 以旧换新奢侈品：概述, April 12, 2024

The combination of trading up and trading down leads to a “disharmony of consumption,”

交易上涨和交易下跌的结合导致“消费不和谐”，

One - Trading Up to New Luxury: An Overview 一 - 以旧换新奢侈品：概述, April 12, 2024

As consumers buy more selectively, trading up and trading down, they increasingly ignore the conventional, midprice product that fails to deliver the ladder of benefits.

随着消费者更有选择性地购买，向上交易和向下交易，他们越来越忽视传统的中等价位产品，这些产品无法提供利益阶梯。

One - Trading Up to New Luxury: An Overview 一 - 以旧换新奢侈品：概述, April 12, 2024

Companies that offer such products are in grave danger of “death in the middle”—they will be unable to match the price of low-cost products or the emotional engagement of New Luxury goods.

提供此类产品的公司将面临“中途死亡”的严重危险——他们将无法与低成本产品的价格或新奢侈品的情感投入相匹配。

One - Trading Up to New Luxury: An Overview 一 - 以旧换新奢侈品：概述, April 12, 2024

At that time, consumers’ desire for manufactured goods soared in an arc parallel to that of industry’s ability to produce them.

当时，消费者对制成品的渴望与工业生产能力平行。

One - Trading Up to New Luxury: An Overview 一 - 以旧换新奢侈品：概述, April 12, 2024

Overall, New Luxury is good news for America because it brings benefits to both its creators and its consumers

总的来说，新奢侈品对美国来说是个好消息，因为它给它的创造者和消费者都带来了好处

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

As our survey shows, almost everyone (96.2 percent) will “pay more” for at least one type of product that is of importance to them, and almost 70 percent identified as many as ten categories in which they will rocket—that is, spend a disproportionate amount of their income, as compared to their spending on other categories.

正如我们的调查所显示的那样，几乎每个人（96.2%）都会为至少一种对他们来说很重要的产品“支付更多费用”，近70%的人确定了多达十个类别，他们将在这些类别中飙升 - 也就是说，与他们在其他类别上的支出相比，花费不成比例的收入。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

New Luxury consumers are defined by their highly selective buying behavior. They carefully and deliberately trade up to premium goods in specific categories while paying less or trading down in many, or most, others. (Some categories, too, are simply of no interest or relevance to them.) The criteria for their selective purchases are both rational— involving technical and functional considerations—and emotional.

新奢侈品消费者的定义是他们高度选择性的购买行为。他们小心翼翼地、有意识地以特定类别的优质商品进行交易，同时在许多或大多数其他类别中支付更少的费用或进行交易。（有些类别也对他们毫无兴趣或相关性。他们有选择性地购买的标准既是理性的（涉及技术和功能方面的考虑），又是情感上的。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Trading up is an important phenomenon because millions of consumers are involved in selective buying in a very wide range of categories.

以旧换新是一个重要的现象，因为数以百万计的消费者参与了非常广泛的类别的选择性购买。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

some consumer profiles are more likely to be New Luxury spenders than others: many are single working people in their twenties.

一些消费者群体更有可能是新奢侈品消费者：许多是20多岁的单身工薪阶层。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Kathy, for example, is twenty-two, lives alone in an apartment in Chicago, and works as a business professional, a job that pays $60,000 a year. “Right now,” she told us, “I do not have anything to pay for except rent and utilities and my telephone. I have a lot of disposable income.” She buys Coach handbags, premium wines, and Panera Bread lunches, and she has “a thing for grocery shopping,” which takes her to specialty and gourmet food shops. But when it comes to shampoo, she “just gets drugstore stuff.” Nor does she trade up on clothing, because “fashion comes and goes, and I can easily cut back in that area.”

例如，凯西今年二十二岁，独自住在芝加哥的一间公寓里，是一名商业专业人士，年薪为 60,000 美元。“现在，”她告诉我们，“除了房租、水电费和电话费，我什么也付不了。我有很多可支配收入。她购买 Coach 手袋、优质葡萄酒和 Panera Bread 午餐，她有“杂货店购物的东西”，带她去特色和美食店。但当谈到洗发水时，她“只是买药店的东西”。她也不会在服装上做交易，因为“时尚来来去去，我可以很容易地削减这个领域。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Like many empty nesters, Charles and Judith spend on travel, their home, and cars. He owns a BMW 3-Series and a Jaguar

像许多空巢老人一样，查尔斯和朱迪思在旅行、房屋和汽车上花费。他拥有一辆宝马3系和一辆捷豹

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Dual-income couples with no kids, or DINKs, and dual-income couples with kids, DIWKs, are also New Luxury buyers.

没有孩子的双收入夫妇（DINK）和有孩子的双收入夫妇（DIWK）也是新奢侈品买家。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Because they earn two incomes, they have enough disposable wealth to spend on premium goods, and because they are pressed for time, they feel the need to buy things that make their lives easier and less stressful.

因为他们赚了两份收入，他们有足够的可支配财富来购买高档商品，而且因为他们时间紧迫，他们觉得有必要购买让他们的生活更轻松、压力更小的东西。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Another contributor to consumers’ wealth is the savings that have been passed on to them by large discount retailers. Over the years, mass retailers such as Wal-Mart, Costco, Home Depot, Lowe’s, Kohl’s, Circuit City, and others have reduced costs and compressed margins so that consumers have been able to enjoy “everyday low prices” on a wide variety of goods and, as a result, lower their cost of living.

消费者财富的另一个贡献者是大型折扣零售商转嫁给他们的储蓄。多年来，沃尔玛、好市多、家得宝、劳氏、科尔、电路城等大众零售商降低了成本并压缩了利润率，以便消费者能够享受各种商品的“日常低价”，从而降低他们的生活成本。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

When things become important to you, they become necessities.

当事情对你变得重要时，它们就会成为必需品。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Women are also working more hours than they used to. Twenty percent of working women put in forty hours a week or more, up from 13 percent in 1976. Twice as many women work forty-nine hours or more per week than did in 1970.

妇女的工作时间也比以前多。20%的职业女性每周工作40小时或更长时间，高于1976年的13%。与1970年相比，每周工作49小时或更长时间的女性人数增加了一倍。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Many more women are single. Women are less likely to get married, and those who do marry do so later in their lives.

更多的女性是单身。女性结婚的可能性较小，而那些结婚的人在以后的生活中结婚。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

They have no families to buy goods for, and they are generally too young to be concerned about saving for retirement or for the education of their as-yet-unborn children.

他们没有家庭可以购买商品，而且他们通常太年轻，无法担心为退休储蓄或尚未出生的孩子的教育。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

(It’s interesting to note that the influence of young single women on the economy is not a phenomenon unique to our society. In Japan, there are about 5 million young, single, working women who live at home with their parents. They spend up to 10 percent of their annual salary on fashion items, and they are the largest spending segment of Japanese society. As a result, they are powerful tastemakers: they have helped make Louis Vuitton the most successful luxury brand in Japan.)

（有趣的是，年轻单身女性对经济的影响并不是我们社会独有的现象。在日本，大约有500万年轻、单身、职业女性与父母一起住在家里。他们把年薪的10%花在时尚上，是日本社会最大的消费群体。因此，他们是强大的品味创造者：他们帮助路易威登成为日本最成功的奢侈品牌。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

There is a final reason that women are so important in the trading up phenomenon. Most observers agree that women have always had a particular ability to judge the value of goods, especially the goods that make up the bulk of the retail market, and a keen understanding of the complex emotional meanings and social messages contained in them.

女性在交易现象中如此重要还有最后一个原因。大多数观察家都认为，女性一直具有判断商品价值的特殊能力，尤其是构成零售市场主体的商品，并且对其中所包含的复杂情感含义和社会信息有着敏锐的理解。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Men as well as women are getting married much later in life than in the past. In 1970, the median age of people at first marriage was 20.8 years; by 2000, that figure had risen to 25.1 years.

男人和女人结婚的时间都比过去晚得多。1970年，初婚年龄中位数为20.8岁;到2000年，这一数字上升到25.1年。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Delayed childbirth has caused an increase in the number of DINK households, and these couples are major contributors to the New Luxury market because they have money to spend and few obligations beyond their own needs and wants.

延迟生育导致丁克家庭数量增加，这些夫妇是新奢侈品市场的主要贡献者，因为他们有钱可花，除了自己的需求和愿望之外，几乎没有义务。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Not only are women having children later in life, they are also having fewer kids in total.

女性不仅在晚年生孩子，而且她们总共生的孩子也越来越少。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Even when women do have their children, they are likely to keep working.

即使女性确实有了孩子，她们也可能会继续工作。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

A Longer Dating Period and High Rates of Divorce

约会时间更长，离婚率高

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Education, Sophistication, and Worldliness

教育、成熟和世俗

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Cultural Permission to Spend

消费文化许可

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Our survey of 2,300 consumers showed that many Americans feel overwhelmed,isolated, lonely, worried, and unhappy.

我们对 2,300 名消费者的调查显示，许多美国人感到不知所措、孤立、孤独、担心和不快乐。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Taking Care of Me: Well-Being, Beauty and Youthfulness, Making Time for Myself

照顾我：幸福、美丽和青春，为自己腾出时间

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

It is about goods I buy to make me feel as good as I can, as immediately as possible.

这是关于我购买的商品，让我尽可能快地感觉良好。

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Paula, fifty-eight, has had a life with more than its share of difficulties, including two divorces and health issues such as heart surgery and a bout with breast cancer, all of which she handled while raising two kids and holding a full-time job in a university library.

现年58岁的宝拉（Paula）的生活困难重重，包括两次离婚和健康问题，例如心脏手术和乳腺癌，所有这些都是她在抚养两个孩子和在大学图书馆从事全职工作时处理的。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

When women find a few moments for themselves, they like to make the most of them. Sometimes they retreat to the bathroom or in-home spa, where they can feel safe, comfortable, warm, relaxed, and reasonably certain they will not be disturbed. They are likely to take with them one of a number of New Luxury goods. They may soak in Aveda Soothing Aqua Therapy, whose “fragrant combination of Dead Sea salts, plant-based emollients, vitamin E, and beneficial essences turns a bath into an indulgence” at $34 for a sixteen-ounce jar. A scented candle from Yankee Candle ($19.99) may flicker on the edge of the tub. They may sip a glass of Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay ($20 for the 750-milliliter bottle) or enjoy a Godiva Dark Chocolate Ganache. (Paula is especially fond of chocolate as a form of Taking Care of Me. “One good piece of chocolate is worth twenty-two Hershey’s bars,” she says.)

当女性为自己找到一些时刻时，她们喜欢充分利用它们。有时他们会回到浴室或家庭水疗中心，在那里他们可以感到安全、舒适、温暖、放松，并有理由确定他们不会被打扰。他们可能会带走一些新奢侈品中的一种。他们可能会浸泡在Aveda Soothing Aqua Therapy中，其“死海盐、植物性润肤剂、维生素E和有益精华的芬芳组合将沐浴变成了一种放纵”，一瓶16盎司的罐装售价为34美元。Yankee Candle（19.99 美元）的香薰蜡烛可能会在浴缸边缘闪烁。他们可以啜饮一杯肯德尔-杰克逊特级珍藏霞多丽（750毫升瓶装20美元）或享用Godiva黑巧克力甘纳许。（宝拉特别喜欢巧克力，把它作为照顾我的一种形式，“一块好巧克力抵得上二十二根好时巧克力棒，”她说。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Melissa buys Aveda personal-care products because “they are very environmentally conscious.

Melissa 购买 Aveda 个人护理产品是因为“它们非常环保。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

You can buy a bottle of Suave for two dollars. The shampoo I buy from Aveda is nine dollars.

你可以花两美元买一瓶 Suave。我从Aveda买的洗发水是九美元。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Men, too, seek moments alone but are more likely to retreat to a room equipped with a personal computer, a premium sound system, or a home theater.

男性也寻求独处的时刻，但更有可能退缩到配备个人电脑、高级音响系统或家庭影院的房间里。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Taking Care of Me

照顾我

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One solution for this couple is eating well. They dine out several times per month, often spending $50 or more for a dinner for two.

这对夫妇的一个解决方案是吃得好。他们每个月外出就餐几次，通常要花50美元或更多才能吃一顿双人晚餐。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Over the past decade, annual restaurant visits per capita have risen from 153 in 1991 to 178 in 2001. The total spending per visit is also on the rise, up 4 percent in 2000 over the year before.

在过去十年中，人均每年的餐馆访问量从1991年的153次上升到2001年的178次。每次访问的总支出也在上升，2000年比前一年增长了4%。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

But not all trading up in food is to organic vegetables and exotic ingredients; many Americans think of ice cream as a major food rejuvenator and are eating premium ice cream at the expense of the “healthier” ice cream alternatives, frozen yogurt, sorbet, and tofu treats.

但并非所有的食品交易都是有机蔬菜和异国情调的食材;许多美国人认为冰淇淋是一种主要的食品复兴剂，并且正在以牺牲“更健康”的冰淇淋替代品、冷冻酸奶、冰糕和豆腐零食为代价来吃优质冰淇淋。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Well-being is also the story behind the success of spas such as Canyon Ranch. Mel Zuckerman, who with his wife, Enid, cofounded Canyon Ranch, says that their goal has been to create places that can bring a “sense of safety, peace, pleasure, and warmth.”

幸福感也是 Canyon Ranch 等水疗中心成功背后的故事。梅尔·祖克曼（Mel Zuckerman）与妻子伊妮德（Enid）共同创立了峡谷牧场（Canyon Ranch），他说，他们的目标是创造能够带来“安全感、和平、愉悦和温暖感”的地方。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

With 350 guests paying up to $6,000 per week, each Canyon Ranch delivers an estimated 20 percent operating margin.

350 位客人每周支付高达 6,000 美元，每个 Canyon Ranch 的营业利润率估计为 20%。

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Now the Zuckermans are doing what all New Luxury creators do—seeking to expand their reach and extend their concept to serve new consumers: families, singles, teens, and short-stay travelers.

现在，Zuckermans正在做所有New Luxury创造者所做的事情——寻求扩大他们的影响力并扩展他们的概念，以服务于新的消费者：家庭、单身人士、青少年和短期旅行者。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

They want to develop and offer new products: vitamins, nutritional supplements, and skin products.

他们希望开发和提供新产品：维生素、营养补充剂和护肤品。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

The number of spas in the United States has almost doubled since 1997, and the number of spa visits in the United States has more than tripled. In 2003, revenues from the spa industry in the United States exceeded $14 billion.

自 1997 年以来，美国的水疗中心数量几乎翻了一番，美国的水疗中心访问次数增加了两倍多。2003年，美国水疗行业的收入超过140亿美元。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Many have come to think of the spa as an essential and regular part of their health, fitness, and beauty regimen, rather than as a place for occasional pampering.

许多人开始认为水疗中心是他们健康、健身和美容养生中必不可少的常规部分，而不是偶尔呵护的地方。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Spa services are no longer designed for, or enjoyed by, only the elite and superrich.

水疗服务不再只为精英和超级富豪设计或享受。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Athena Health Club and Day Spa in Brent-wood, Tennessee, says, “We are serving more and more working women who don’t have a lot of money, work nine to five, but know the importance of pampering before going home to the kids.”

田纳西州布伦特伍德的雅典娜健康俱乐部和日间水疗中心说：“我们正在为越来越多的职业女性提供服务，她们没有很多钱，朝九晚五工作，但知道在回家照顾孩子之前呵护的重要性。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

The first time I went, I came home so happy that my husband said I should go once a month.

我第一次去的时候，我回到家非常高兴，我丈夫说我应该每个月去一次。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

The fastest-growing segment of the industry is composed of spas located in hotels and resorts, with 237 percent growth in the number of such establishments in the United States between 1997 and 2002. In 2001, revenues from resort and hotel spas reached about $2.4 billion.

该行业增长最快的部分是位于酒店和度假村的水疗中心，1997 年至 2002 年间，美国此类场所的数量增长了 237%。2001年，度假村和酒店水疗中心的收入达到约24亿美元。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

So many travelers now think of a spa as an important hotel amenity, industry insiders predict they will become as common as minibars and high-speed Internet connections.

现在，许多旅行者将水疗中心视为重要的酒店设施，业内人士预测，水疗中心将变得像迷你吧和高速互联网连接一样普遍。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

As spas have grown in popularity, they have also added new services, such as aromatherapy, body scrubs, and, in a notable trend, medical services.

随着水疗中心的日益普及，他们也增加了新的服务，如芳香疗法、身体磨砂，以及一个值得注意的趋势，即医疗服务。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

In 2002, there were some 225 medispas in the United States, with combined revenues of about $205 million.

2002年，美国大约有225家医疗机构，总收入约为2.05亿美元。

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Spas of all kinds appeal primarily to the Taking Care of Me emotional space

各式各样的水疗中心主要吸引着“照顾我”的情感空间

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Thirty-three percent of women said they left the spa feeling “more attractive,” and 24 percent said they felt “more confident.”

33%的女性表示，她们离开水疗中心时感觉“更有吸引力”，24%的女性表示她们感到“更自信”。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Connecting is as important as Taking Care of Me for American consumers, and New Luxury goods are instrumental in helping to make connections and keep them strong.

对于美国消费者来说，联系与照顾我一样重要，而新奢侈品有助于建立联系并保持牢固的联系。

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There are new dating rules. While it is mostly women who make up the rules and enforce them, females can get just as frustrated and confused by the process as men. This is primarily because they are generally more interested in marriage than men are; although both women and men are delaying marriage, men delay longer.

有新的约会规则。虽然制定规则并执行规则的大多是女性，但女性可能会像男性一样对这个过程感到沮丧和困惑。这主要是因为她们通常比男性对婚姻更感兴趣;虽然女人和男人都在推迟结婚，但男人拖延的时间更长。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

The most sexually active women are eighteen to twenty-nine years old, and the great majority have had their first sexual intercourse while in high school. So, because most women (as well as men) come into their dating years with early sexual experience and because they are delaying marriage, the median time between first sexual encounter and marriage has dramatically increased, from 1.3 to 8.1 years. That means the period of active dating is very much longer than it used to be.

性生活最活跃的女性年龄在18至29岁之间，绝大多数女性在高中时有过第一次。因此，由于大多数女性（以及男性）在进入约会年龄时都有早期的性经验，并且由于她们推迟了结婚，因此第一次性接触和结婚之间的中位时间急剧增加，从1.3年增加到8.1年。这意味着活跃约会的时间比以前长得多。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

Even though the window for “hookups” is longer, the pace of the dating game has not slowed, and the business of finding a lover who might become a suitable mate seems as fraught as ever.

尽管“转播”的窗口期更长，但约会游戏的步伐并没有放缓，寻找可能成为合适伴侣的情人似乎一如既往地令人担忧。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

This is partially because of the greater sophistication of the dating “consumer”—people are seeking the best possible companion available, and thanks to the popular media, they have a much larger pool to evaluate, at least virtually.

这在一定程度上是因为约会“消费者”的复杂性更高——人们正在寻找最好的伴侣，而且由于大众媒体的出现，他们有更大的资源库可以评估，至少在虚拟上是这样。

Two - The Spenders and Their Needs: Sociodemographics, Emotional Drivers 二 - 消费者及其需求：社会人口统计学、情感驱动因素, April 12, 2024

It’s also because everybody is so pressed for time—working harder, doing more, trying to cram more of everything into life

這也是因為每個人都對時間如此緊迫——更努力地工作，做更多的事情，試圖把更多的一切都塞進生活中

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Because daters are so pressed for time, they look for ways to make the process work most effectively.

由于约会者的时间非常紧迫，他们正在寻找使流程最有效地工作的方法。

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send prospective partners signals

向潜在合作伙伴发送信号

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But “sending signals” is not simply about showing off wealth, as it might have been in years past.

但“发出信号”并不像过去几年那样简单地炫耀财富。

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The National Marriage Project reports that men are put off by women who overemphasize material goods: “They resent being evaluated on the size of their wallet, their possessions, or their earnings.” However, many daters don’t mind signaling the size of their income in subtle ways. Alvaro, a twenty-six-year-old administrative assistant earning $35,000 annually, says that when you call for Ketel One vodka, “you might as well hold out your dollar bills and fan yourself with them.”

国家婚姻项目（National Marriage Project）报告说，过分强调物质财富的女人会让男人望而却步：“他们讨厌别人根据他们的钱包、财产或收入来评估他们的钱包。然而，许多约会者不介意以微妙的方式表明他们的收入规模。26岁的行政助理阿尔瓦罗（Alvaro）年收入35,000美元，他说，当你打电话给Ketel One伏特加时，“你还不如拿出你的美元钞票，用它们给自己扇风。

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More often, however, the language of goods in dating is about signaling our taste and knowledge, achievements and values, and those qualities are the very basis of New Luxury things: the liquor we order, the lingerie and clothing we wear, the jewelry and accessories we display. But it is not only a language of display

然而，更多时候，约会中的商品语言是关于我们的品味和知识、成就和价值观的信号，而这些品质是新奢侈品的基础：我们点的酒，我们穿的内衣和衣服，我们展示的珠宝和配饰。但它不仅仅是一种展示语言

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New Luxury goods are tools of attraction not just for young daters and those in the marriage market for the first time; they are also sought by people who have divorced or suffered a breakup.

新奢侈品不仅是吸引年轻约会者和第一次进入婚姻市场的人的工具;离婚或分手的人也会寻求它们。

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Women spend on apparel, jewelry, cosmetics, spirits, and dining out. Men tend to spend on electronics and cars.

女性在服装、珠宝、化妆品、烈酒和外出就餐上花钱。男性倾向于在电子产品和汽车上花钱。

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esteem

自尊

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The primary reason is time. In many families, family members may find very few moments to spend together.

主要原因是时间。在许多家庭中，家庭成员可能很少能在一起度过。

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When family members cannot spend time together, goods can act as a compensation, even a substitute for the lost moments—sharing a cup of Starbucks coffee, eating a gourmet take-out meal, spending time in front of the Sony home theater, or listening to music on the Bose Wave radio.

当家庭成员无法共度时光时，物品可以作为一种补偿，甚至可以替代失去的时刻——分享一杯星巴克咖啡、吃一顿美味的外卖餐、在索尼家庭影院前消磨时光，或者听 Bose Wave 收音机上的音乐。

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Because I have no children and she is my niece and the only one I have, I am willing to spend that amount of money for something special,” says Dorothy, who earns $55,000 as a librarian.

因为我没有孩子，她是我的侄女，也是我唯一的侄女，我愿意花那么多钱买一些特别的东西，“多萝西说，她作为图书管理员的收入为 55,000 美元。

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Questing: Taste, Adventure, Learning, and Play

探索：味觉、冒险、学习和游戏

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Questing is the emotional space that has emerged the most strongly in the past several years.

探索是过去几年中出现最强烈的情感空间。

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Questing is about venturing out into the world, experiencing new things, and pushing back personal limits—and travel is the most popular way to do so.

探索是关于冒险进入世界、体验新事物和挑战个人极限——而旅行是最受欢迎的方式。

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Seventy-two percent of the respondents to the survey told us they “love to travel,” and as we’ve seen, Americans are traveling more than ever before, primarily to Europe and Asia.

72%的受访者告诉我们，他们“喜欢旅行”，正如我们所看到的，美国人比以往任何时候都更多地旅行，主要是去欧洲和亚洲。

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They want to combine travel with knowledge gathering, acquiring new skills, and collecting memorable experiences.

他们希望将旅行与知识收集、获得新技能和收集难忘的经历结合起来。

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Although beach vacations are still the most popular, the World Tourism Organization predicts that sport- and nature-based vacations to new and lesser-known destinations will have the most growth.

尽管海滩度假仍然是最受欢迎的，但世界旅游组织预测，前往新的和鲜为人知的目的地的基于运动和自然的假期将增长最快。

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In our interviews, travel was a recurring theme and topic of enthusiastic discussion.

在我们的采访中，旅行是一个反复出现的主题，也是热烈讨论的话题。

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The yearning to quest is also fulfilled by traveling to destination spas in far-flung locations such as Banyan Tree in Thailand, Ananda Spa in the Himalayas, and Rancho La Puerta in Mexico. Spa-goers also think of trying new and exotic treatments such as Chi Nei Tsang, shiatsu, and acupuncture as a form of questing.

前往遥远地点的目的地水疗中心，如泰国的悦榕庄、喜马拉雅山的阿南达水疗中心和墨西哥的拉普埃尔塔牧场，也可以满足对探索的渴望。水疗爱好者还认为尝试新的和异国情调的治疗方法，如Chi Nei Tsang，指压和针灸，作为一种探索形式。

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The interest in Questing has brought dramatic change even to a travel category that has long been the epitome of Old Luxury: cruises.

对 Questing 的兴趣甚至给长期以来一直是旧奢侈品缩影的旅行类别带来了巨大的变化：游轮。

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Today, cruises are becoming an affordable luxury for middle-market consumers. Almost 7 million North Americans took a cruise in 2001, up from just over 3 million in 1988.

如今，邮轮正成为中端市场消费者负担得起的奢侈品。2001年，近700万北美人乘坐邮轮，而1988年只有300多万。

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Cruises are also, of course, about Connecting. Conquest, Carnival’s largest “fun ship,” has twenty-two bars and restaurants to explore, providing plenty of opportunities and options for meeting and evaluating potential partners and playmates. With some 3,000 passengers aboard, it’s like a four-day dating event with 1,500 candidates to choose from

当然，游轮也与连接有关。征服号是嘉年华最大的“游乐船”，有22家酒吧和餐厅可供探索，为结识和评估潜在的合作伙伴和玩伴提供了大量机会和选择。船上约有 3,000 名乘客，这就像一场为期四天的约会活动，有 1,500 名候选人可供选择

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Individual Style: Achievement, Sophistication, and Success

个人风格：成就、成熟和成功

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Luxury is good,” says Rebecca, “because it allows people to express themselves.”

奢侈品是件好事，“丽贝卡说，”因为它允许人们表达自己。

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BMW, for example, has established itself as the “ultimate driving machine,” which may sound innocuous until it is analyzed in the context of competitive models.

例如，宝马已经将自己确立为“终极驾驶机器”，这听起来可能无害，除非在竞争模型的背景下进行分析。

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Brands play an important role in creating an Individual Style that sends messages to all kinds of people—including potential employers, colleagues, friends, lovers, and family members.

品牌在创造个人风格方面发挥着重要作用，这种风格向各种人（包括潜在的雇主、同事、朋友、恋人和家人）发送信息。

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Self-branding through association with brand names can be tricky because of the speed of the fashion cycle. Messages can change quickly, and brands can become distorted in meaning.

由于时尚周期的速度，通过与品牌名称相关联的自我品牌可能很棘手。信息可以迅速变化，品牌的意义可能会变得扭曲。

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But fashion comes and goes. I could cut back in that area and buy more things that I like rather than just the most expensive items.

但时尚来来去去。我可以削减这方面的工作，买更多我喜欢的东西，而不仅仅是最贵的东西。

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A New Luxury kitchen often has a six-burner cooktop, griddle, triple ovens, warming drawer, side-by-side or walk-in refrigerator, wine refrigerator, and more, from companies such as Viking, Sub-Zero, Gaggenau, Jenn-Air, and others that consumers value for their look, features, and values.

新豪华厨房通常配备六头炉灶、烤盘、三重烤箱、保温抽屉、并排或步入式冰箱、葡萄酒冰箱等，来自 Viking、Sub-Zero、Gaggenau、Jenn-Air 等公司，消费者因其外观、功能和价值而看重。

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The Limits of Emotional Engagement with Goods

与商品情感接触的局限性

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And there are other elements that come into play in the emotional spaces, including morality and values. We are not totally selfish beings, and we feel a strong sense of responsibility to other people, our country, and our world environment

在情感空间中还有其他因素，包括道德和价值观。我们不是完全自私的人，我们对他人、我们的国家和我们的世界环境有强烈的责任感

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New Luxury consumers, therefore, are complex creatures. They have wealth and sophistication. They are driven by fears but have high aspirations. They want it all, but they are often exhausted by trying to get it. They spend liberally on themselves, but they also believe they should do right for the world. They rocket, they trade up, and they trade down. They follow fashion and scoff at it. They buy for individual style and a little bit for status. They are highly influenced by their friends and cultural figures, but they have strong tastes of their own. They will try almost anything, but they give their loyalty sparingly. They don’t believe in debt, but they don’t let money stand in the way of buying what they want. They love objects, but they don’t believe in conspicuous consumption. New Luxury consumers need a lot of understanding. When they get it, they are not only appreciative, they are also likely to open up their pocketbooks and spend. They are a growing force of consumers—one to be reckoned with.

因此，新奢侈品消费者是复杂的生物。他们拥有财富和老练。他们被恐惧所驱使，但有远大的抱负。他们想要一切，但他们经常因为试图得到它而筋疲力尽。他们在自己身上大手大脚，但他们也相信他们应该为世界做正确的事。他们飞涨，他们交易，他们交易下降。他们追随时尚并嘲笑它。他们购买是为了个人风格，也是为了地位。他们深受朋友和文化人物的影响，但他们有自己的强烈品味。他们几乎会尝试任何事情，但他们谨慎地给予忠诚。他们不相信债务，但他们不会让金钱阻碍他们购买他们想要的东西。他们喜欢物品，但他们不相信炫耀性消费。新奢侈品消费者需要很多理解。当他们得到它时，他们不仅会感激，还可能会打开钱包并消费。他们是一支日益增长的消费者力量，是一支不可忽视的力量。

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And New Luxury goods are more than simply objects of consumption. They have become a language, a nonverbal method of self-expression and social dialogue.

新奢侈品不仅仅是消费对象。它们已经成为一种语言，一种自我表达和社会对话的非语言方法。

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Ely Callaway spent thirty years in the textile business before he entered the wine business and then, at the age of sixty-three, created Callaway Golf. Pleasant Rowland had been a teacher before she created the American Girl doll.

伊利·卡拉威（Ely Callaway）在进入葡萄酒行业之前，在纺织业工作了30年，然后在63岁时创建了卡拉威高尔夫（Callaway Golf）。普莱森特·罗兰（Pleasant Rowland）在创作美国女孩娃娃之前曾是一名教师。

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But New Luxury goods can also be created by an established leader or industry insider who has the rare ability to think like an outsider.

但新奢侈品也可以由一位知名的领导者或业内人士创造，他们具有罕见的像局外人一样思考的能力。

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Joe Coulombe had been in the grocery business for almost ten years as founder and leader of a chain of convenience stores called Pronto Markets before he transformed it into Trader Joe’s.

乔·库伦贝（Joe Coulombe）在将便利店转变为Trader Joe’s之前，作为一家名为Pronto Markets的连锁便利店的创始人和领导者，从事杂货业务近十年。

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Outsider thinking is important because it enables the entrepreneur to wriggle free of that constricting assumption of the industry insider

局外人思维很重要，因为它使企业家能够摆脱行业内部人士的束缚

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Unlike the professional manager, who argues that he could run any business, New Luxury leaders want to create and build only a specific business whose products are of great interest to them.

与职业经理人不同，职业经理人认为自己可以经营任何业务，而新奢侈品的领导者只想创建和建立他们非常感兴趣的特定业务。

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Old Luxury goods are priced to ensure that only the top-earning 1 to 2 percent of consumers can afford them

旧奢侈品的定价确保只有收入最高的1%至2%的消费者才能买得起

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Old Luxury goods, by contrast, have not always been of the highest quality, at least as defined by American manufacturing standards; rather, they have been promoted as “handmade,” often by “old-world craftsmen,” even if those craftsmen are assisted by machines and advanced technologies.

相比之下，旧奢侈品并不总是最高质量的，至少按照美国制造标准的定义是这样;相反，它们被宣传为“手工制作”，通常是由“旧世界的工匠”制作的，即使这些工匠得到了机器和先进技术的帮助。

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Conventional middle-market goods, by contrast, are driven by only the most obvious of shared values: convenience and cost.

相比之下，传统的中间市场商品只受到最明显的共同价值观的驱动：便利性和成本。

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Surprisingly, the big discounters have also become important sellers of New Luxury items in certain categories that can deliver high volume. Costco, for example, stocks a larger selection and sells a larger volume of premium wine than any other retailer.

令人惊讶的是，大型折扣店也已成为某些类别中可以提供大量新奢侈品的重要卖家。例如，好市多（Costco）的库存比任何其他零售商都多，销售的优质葡萄酒也更多。

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And Costco will continue to affect the New Luxury market. The company achieved $38 billion in sales in its 2002 fiscal year. With 412 locations, it achieved average sales per store of $92 million. Costco serves over 19 million members who spend an average $2,000 per year.

Costco将继续影响新奢侈品市场。该公司在 2002 财年实现了 380 亿美元的销售额。它拥有 412 家门店，每家门店的平均销售额为 9200 万美元。Costco 为超过 1900 万会员提供服务，他们平均每年花费 2,000 美元。

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David Neeleman of JetBlue, for example, raised $130 million from five investors.

例如，捷蓝航空（JetBlue）的大卫·尼尔曼（David Neeleman）从五位投资者那里筹集了1.3亿美元。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

But New Luxury start-ups usually require outside investment as well, and they benefited from the increase in venture capital activity in the late 1980s and 1990s.

但新奢侈品初创企业通常也需要外部投资，它们受益于 1980 年代末和 1990 年代风险投资活动的增加。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

In the year 2000, 4,608 companies benefited from venture capital investment, taking in a total of a little more than $104 billion.

2000年，有4 608家公司从风险资本投资中受益，总额略高于1 040亿美元。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

At the end of 2002, there was a pool of $90 billion in uncommitted capital looking for deals.

到2002年底，有900亿美元的未承诺资本在寻找交易。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

Kendall-Jackson (founded in 1982) is private. Bose (1964), Patagonia (1976), Crate and Barrel (1962), Pret A Manger (1986), Sub-Zero (1945), Trek (1976), and Viking Range (1984) are all private companies.

Kendall-Jackson（成立于 1982 年）是私人的。Bose （1964）、Patagonia （1976）、Crate and Barrel （1962）、Pret A Manger （1986）、Sub-Zero （1945）、Trek （1976）和 Viking Range （1984）都是私营公司。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

But many New Luxury players do go public, and the last fifteen years of the last century also defined the golden age of the initial public offering (IPO). There were 109 IPOs in 1990, which raised a total of $4.5 billion. In 2000, 380 companies went public, raising $75.8 billion, including New Luxury players Tiffany (IPO in 1987), Callaway Golf (1992), Starbucks (1992), The Boston Beer Company (1995), Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia (1999), Coach (spun off from Sara Lee in 2001), and JetBlue (2002).

但许多新奢侈品公司确实上市了，上个世纪的最后十五年也定义了首次公开募股（IPO）的黄金时代。1990年共有109次首次公开募股，共筹集了45亿美元。2000 年，380 家公司上市，筹集了 758 亿美元，其中包括新奢侈品公司蒂芙尼（1987 年首次公开募股）、卡拉威高尔夫（1992 年）、星巴克（1992 年）、波士顿啤酒公司（1995 年）、玛莎斯图尔特生活全媒体（1999 年）、蔻驰（2001 年从 Sara Lee 分拆出来）和捷蓝航空（2002 年）。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

But manufacturers worldwide have been making gains in productivity while improving quality and still keeping labor costs low. China, in particular, has outflanked the traditional contenders—especially the newly industrialized countries of East Asia, including Taiwan, South Korea, and Singapore—as the country best able to offer quality production at low cost

但是，世界各地的制造商一直在提高生产力，同时提高质量并保持较低的劳动力成本。尤其是中国，已经超越了传统的竞争者，尤其是东亚的新兴工业化国家，包括台湾、韩国和新加坡，成为最有能力以低成本提供优质产品的国家

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

Li & Fung, based in Hong Kong, is the largest and most successful of these supply-chain optimizers, with some seven hundred customers in 2000 and total revenues of over $4 billion

总部设在香港的利丰是这些供应链优化公司中规模最大、最成功的一家，2000年拥有约700名客户，总收入超过40亿美元

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

New Luxury goods are more responsive to trends than are conventional goods, and they flow in a faster stream of innovation.

与传统商品相比，新奢侈品对趋势的反应更灵敏，并且它们在更快的创新流中流动。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

Traditionally, the translation of the innovations in a $2,000 custom-made style into a $100 outfit could take a couple of years. Now it gets done in a few months, or even a few weeks.

传统上，将 2,000 美元的定制款式的创新转化为 100 美元的服装可能需要几年时间。现在它可以在几个月甚至几周内完成。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

For example, Prada introduced a new material—ostrich leather—at the European runway shows in September 1999 and featured a $2,800 ostrich leather skirt in its spring 2000 couture collection. But the middle-market consumer did not have to wait two years to join in the ostrich leather excitement. Designer Bebe had a $78 ostrich leather handbag ready for spring 2000, and Victoria’s Secret previewed an ostrich-embossed leather skirt in the fall of 2000.

例如，Prada在1999年9月的欧洲时装秀上推出了一种新材料——鸵鸟皮，并在其2000年春季高级定制系列中推出了一条售价2,800美元的鸵鸟皮裙。但中端市场的消费者不必等待两年就能加入鸵鸟皮的兴奋。设计师 Bebe 在 2000 年春季准备了一款售价 78 美元的鸵鸟皮手袋，维多利亚的秘密在 2000 年秋季预览了一款鸵鸟压花皮裙。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

Zara, a clothing retailer that is based in Spain and has more than five hundred stores worldwide, has been particularly successful in changing the rules of the fashion game. The industry standard lead time—the time it takes from the initial design of a new article of clothing to the moment it gets hung on a rack or stacked on a shelf—is about nine months. At Zara, the process can take as little as three weeks.

Zara 是一家总部位于西班牙的服装零售商，在全球拥有 500 多家门店，在改变时尚游戏规则方面尤为成功。行业标准的交货时间——从新衣服的最初设计到挂在架子上或堆放在架子上的时间——大约是九个月。在Zara，这个过程可能只需要三周时间。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

Rather, Zara seeks to stay close to the market, watching for what’s selling best and new trends that are emerging, and responds to them quickly.

相反，Zara寻求与市场保持密切联系，观察最畅销的产品和正在出现的新趋势，并迅速做出反应。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

When a store manager notices that a particular style is moving briskly, for example, she can order more units via a customized handheld device. The order is placed immediately and sent to one of Zara’s factories, most of which are in Spain. Factory deliveries are made twice each week, resulting in about eleven inventory turns per year, two to three times the industry average.

例如，当商店经理注意到特定款式正在快速移动时，她可以通过定制的手持设备订购更多商品。订单立即下达并发送到 Zara 的一家工厂，其中大部分位于西班牙。工厂每周交货两次，每年产生约11次库存周转，是行业平均水平的两到三倍。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

Instead, he reached his goal in the first four months of production, and the company proceeded to grow at 30 percent a year. Koch could not make that much beer in his own small handcraft brewery. The solution was to control the selection of the ingredients, specify all aspects of the brewing process—which combined aspects of nineteenth-century brewing with twentieth-century quality-control methods—then outsource it and, finally, manage distribution.

相反，他在生产的前四个月就达到了目标，公司继续以每年 30% 的速度增长。科赫无法在他自己的小型手工啤酒厂生产那么多啤酒。解决方案是控制原料的选择，指定酿造过程的所有方面（将 19 世纪的酿造方面与 20 世纪的质量控制方法相结合），然后将其外包，最后管理分销。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

Many New Luxury products contain important technical features that differentiate them from their competitors and require complex and expensive manufacturing processes.

许多新奢侈品产品都包含重要的技术特征，使其与竞争对手区分开来，并且需要复杂而昂贵的制造工艺。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

The Practices of New Luxury Leaders

新奢侈品领导者的实践

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

Never underestimate the customer. In every New Luxury category, consumers are more affluent, better educated, and more sophisticated than ever before. In the categories they care about, they consider themselves to be knowledgeable and even expert.

永远不要低估客户。在每一个新奢侈品类别中，消费者比以往任何时候都更富裕、受过更好的教育、更成熟。在他们关心的类别中，他们认为自己是知识渊博的，甚至是专家。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

Shatter the price-volume demand curve; seek higher price points and higher volumes. The masstige segment, for example, is 20 to 40 percent of many personal-care categories and growing at twice the industry average.

打破价格-数量需求曲线;寻求更高的价格点和更高的产量。例如，大众护理细分市场占许多个人护理类别的20%至40%，增长速度是行业平均水平的两倍。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

Create a ladder of genuine benefits. Perhaps the most important of the New Luxury practices is ensuring that the products deliver a ladder of genuine differences—technical, functional, and emotional.

创造一个真正利益的阶梯。也许新奢侈品实践中最重要的一点是确保产品在技术、功能和情感方面提供真正的差异。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

Escalate innovation, elevate quality, deliver a flawless experience. The market for New Luxury is rich in opportunity, but it is also unstable. This is because technical and functional advantages are increasingly short-lived, as new competitors enter the market, and because of the relentless downward pressure of the innovation cascade.

升级创新，提升质量，提供完美的体验。新奢侈品市场机会丰富，但也很不稳定。这是因为随着新的竞争者进入市场，技术和功能优势越来越短暂，并且因为创新级联的无情下行压力。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

Extend the price range and positioning of the brand. Many New Luxury brands extend the brand upmarket to create aspirational appeal and down-market to make it more accessible and more competitive and to build demand.

扩大品牌的价格范围和定位。许多新奢侈品牌将品牌扩展到高端市场，以创造令人向往的吸引力，而将品牌推向低端市场，使其更容易获得，更具竞争力，并建立需求。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

The Mercedes-Benz range, for example, extends from the successful C230 sports coupe at $26,000 to the Maybach 62 at $350,000, a thirteenfold span.

例如，梅赛德斯-奔驰系列从成功的 C230 运动轿跑车（售价 26,000 美元）延伸到售价 350,000 美元的迈巴赫 62，跨度为 13 倍。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

Customize your value chain to deliver on the benefit ladder. New Luxury creators often work outside the established value chain in order to overcome the structural barriers that stand in the way of small producers. They put the emphasis on control, rather than ownership, of the value chain and become masters at orchestrating it.

定制您的价值链，实现福利阶梯。新奢侈品创造者经常在既定的价值链之外工作，以克服阻碍小生产者的结构性障碍。他们把重点放在对价值链的控制上，而不是所有权上，并成为协调价值链的大师。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

Use influence marketing; seed your success through brand apostles. In New Luxury goods, a small percentage of category consumers contribute the dominant share of value. In categories with frequent repeat purchases, such as lingerie and spirits, the top 10 percent of customers generate up to half of category sales and profits.

使用影响力营销;通过品牌使徒播下您的成功种子。在新奢侈品中，一小部分类别的消费者贡献了价值的主导份额。在频繁重复购买的品类中，如内衣和烈酒，前 10% 的客户产生了高达一半的品类销售额和利润。

Three - The Creators and Their Goods: Definitions, Forces, Practices 三 - 创造者及其商品：定义、力量、实践, April 12, 2024

Don’t rest on your laurels; continually attack the category like an outsider. New Luxury creators look beyond their own categories for the trends and patterns that will generate the next breakthrough. Sources of inspiration can include Old Luxury products or services, innovations from Europe or Asia, analogues from other categories, and advice from experts and professionals.

不要固步自封;像局外人一样不断攻击该类别。新奢侈品创造者将目光投向自己的类别之外，寻找将产生下一个突破的趋势和模式。灵感来源可以包括Old Luxury产品或服务，来自欧洲或亚洲的创新，来自其他类别的类似物，以及专家和专业人士的建议。

Four - Inside the New American Home: Retailers, Appliance Innovators 四 - 走进新美国家居：零售商、家电创新者, April 12, 2024

The changing character of the American home is one of the clearest indicators of major shifts in our society. The home reflects not only our sense of economic well-being but also our attitudes about living, raising a family, social interaction, personal style and taste, and accomplishment.

美国家庭不断变化的特征是我们社会发生重大变化的最明显指标之一。家不仅反映了我们的经济幸福感，还反映了我们对生活、养家糊口、社交互动、个人风格和品味以及成就的态度。

Four - Inside the New American Home: Retailers, Appliance Innovators 四 - 走进新美国家居：零售商、家电创新者, April 12, 2024

Among the categories we have studied, the home ranks at the top of the trading-up list by a substantial margin— Americans distort their discretionary spending toward their home more than any other category. “The American Dream” is not only alive and well as an aspiration, it has become the emblem of our identity, the physical expression of our heart and soul.

在我们研究的类别中，房屋在以旧换新名单中名列前茅——美国人比其他任何类别都更扭曲他们对房屋的可自由支配支出。“美国梦”不仅是一种愿望，而且已成为我们身份的象征，是我们心灵和灵魂的物理表达。

Title Page 扉页, April 13, 2024

Michael J. Silverstein 是波士顿咨询集团的高级合伙人兼董事总经理。他还是《寻宝：新消费者的内心世界》一书的合著者

Title Page 扉页, April 13, 2024

尼尔·菲斯克（Neil Fiske）曾是BCG的合伙人，现在是埃迪·鲍尔（Eddie Bauer）的首席执行官，现在在一家价值20亿美元的零售业务中应用了Trading Up的规则

Title Page 扉页, April 13, 2024

合作作家约翰·布特曼（John Butman）是十几本关于商业管理和社会变革主题的书籍的作者、编辑或合作作家。他的作品已被翻译成十五种语言，并出现在《纽约时报》、《商业周刊》和《环球邮报》的畅销书排行榜上

Dedication 奉献, April 13, 2024

首先我要说的是，我是这本书的信徒。自从 1963 年在俄亥俄州哥伦布市开设第一家限量店以来，我一直在实践 Michael 和 Neil 在其中描述的原则。我知道他们的想法是有效的，我相信他们定义了当今几乎所有重大品牌成功的“甜蜜点”，并且在未来将继续做得很好

Dedication 奉献, April 13, 2024

在这本书中，你会在维多利亚的秘密的故事中找到这个真相，维多利亚的秘密是世界上最知名、最畅销、最赚钱的内衣品牌。分析师认为，当我们收购这家公司时，我们疯了

Dedication 奉献, April 13, 2024

Trading up is one of the most powerful and durable economic phenomena of our times

Dedication 奉献, April 13, 2024

我们在 2002 年写了 Trading Up，精装版于 2003 年秋天出版。当时美国正在为伊拉克战争做准备，然后进行战争。在那段时间里，我在波士顿咨询集团（BCG）的一位合伙人打电话给我说：“迈克尔，你真的认为这种交易现象会持续下去吗？世界正处于危机之中。“我回答说：”以旧换新是我们这个时代最强大、最持久的经济现象之一

Dedication 奉献, April 13, 2024

这一切的背后是四种情感力量的牵引力——“照顾我”的需要、联系、追求和寻求个人风格——这已成为许多人的警笛之歌

Dedication 奉献, April 13, 2024

Trading-up spending accounted for about 21 percent of the $3.5 trillion Americans spent in 2006—some $730 billion, up from $670 billion the year before—in key New Luxury categories, including homes and home renovation, transportation, food and beverage, travel and entertainment, personal items, dining out, home goods, and apparel and other fashion items

Dedication 奉献, April 13, 2024

2006年，美国人在3.5万亿美元的消费中，以旧换新支出约占21%，约为7300亿美元，高于前一年的6700亿美元，这些消费主要类别包括住宅和家居装修、交通、食品和饮料、旅游和娱乐、个人用品、外出就餐、家居用品、服装和其他时尚用品